Maurice Lacroix

Born in 1975 in Zurich as the in-house brand of Desco von Schulthess, a company that since 1961 had been making watches for third parties in a workshop in Saignelégier, in the famous Swiss Jura. In 1980 it stopped producing for other brands and focused on its own, establishing itself in the 90s with its high-end line Les Mécanique, later renamed “Masterpiece” and still part of its catalogue.

Curiously, the origin of the brand name is not linked to any watchmaker, as is the case with other Swiss brands. Maurice Lacroix was a member of the Desco von Schilthess board who passed away just as the company decided to launch its own brand. So the rest of the management decided to name it in his memory. A wonderful gesture.

The Aikon, with its six-arm bezel and Claus de Paris style dial, revives the sporty-elegant aesthetic of the 70s. It remains a very attractive option and more affordable than others of a similar style, and it is today the firm's flagship. A superb choice that I would not rule out adding to my collection in the future.

In any case, the brand's catalogue does not stop there. The Masterpiece is probably one of the most attractive dress watches on the market, with in-house calibers and interesting complications, such as retrogrades and power reserves, and with very competitive prices for the quality they demonstrate.

Raymond Weil

Founded a year later than Maurice Lacroix, in the midst of the quartz crisis, in Geneva. I was fortunate enough to visit their headquarters in the city and, together with Jose, their sales director, see the collections and the facilities. In 1996 Oliver Berheim took over from the founder, and in 2014 his grandson did. Raymond Weil, who has since passed away, would be very proud that the company remains in the family's hands.

Music defines the brand's DNA. Its first collections, Parsifal, Nabucco and Othello, are named after the favourite operas of the founder and his wife, who was a pianist. And in recent years it has dedicated collections to the Beatles, Jimi Hendrix and David Bowie.

The Freelancer, launched in 2007 as a tribute to the independent and contemporary spirit, is one of the collections most loved by its customers. And in recent years they have opted for a neo-vintage style, reflected in the collections Toccata or Millesime, with designs and finishes that collectors fall in love with.

Their latest release is the A.R.T., a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, which has stirred some controversy for sharing certain traits with the IWC Ingenieur. Something that happens regularly in this industry, where everything has already been invented. Even so, there are many details that give it its own design language, in keeping with the rest of the brand and which, without a doubt, at around 2.000 euros offers a very competitive value proposition. Hopefully they will release it with a transparent case back so the movement can be appreciated.

Trematic

Founded in 1952, though perhaps less well known in Spain, by E. Petremand in Cologny (Geneva). It made a name for itself in the late 50s and early 60s with moon phase watches and triple calendars built on Felsa movements. Unfortunately, the quartz crisis wiped it off the map in the 80s, until Daniele Campagnano relaunched it in 2022.

Campagnano inherited his passion for watchmaking from his maternal grandfather, who was a collector of the brand. And his project Archivío Uno consists of literally recovering the original designs from the 50s-60s archive, rather than giving the brand a new aesthetic. They offer dress watches for under 1.000 €, with great character and Swiss finishes and movements.

It recently revived reference 802. A beautiful triple calendar in a 35,6 millimetre case, housing an ETA 2846 movement in grade elaboré. An option that will never go out of fashion and with an attractive price of 2.300 euros.